Thursday, June 13, 2013

Life elevated


First multi-pitch of my life!  Holdless Horror on Dozier Dome, just east of Tenya Lake.  WOW.  All together a 500’ route, with 4 pitches, listed as 5.6★★★★  (given 4 stars for being an epic 'must do' climb) Now the climbing guide book did say to take the Yosemite route ratings with a grain of salt, but I would agree with the 5.6 rating.  However, the difficulties that I faced...

I danced along the edge of the comfort/panic zone.  First time climbing with a backpack (food, water, shoes, climbing guide, etc.): Not a big difference, and to some extent I forgot it was even there.  First time cleaning the route: My partner would lead the climb, and as he went up, he would place gear (protection such as cams, chocks) into the crack on the rock wall and then clip his rope in, thus attaching himself to the rock and protecting him in case of a fall.  At the end of the ‘pitch’, he would build an anchor, and then belay me as I climbed up that same pitch (follower), and removed all the protection gear that he placed. (see below!)



First time climbing a fair distance out of sight of the belayer (no one to help point out hand holds, provide encouragement, etc.): I had my moments of panic, knowing that that only way out was up, no one was watching, and being stuck wasn’t an option.  It forced myself to choose a hold, go for it, and head up.  The rock face was a mix of smallish knobs to grasp and crack to wedge in feet/hands.  (Also didn’t help that the clouds were beginning to join forces in the sky, still had to keep going up!)

Hanging out mid-climb, hooked into the anchor. Tenaya Lake
is over my shoulder (the road winds around the lake edge, we're up high!!)

In general, the biggest aspect of climbing that made itself very apparent is: Trust.  Trust that your partner is competent (placement of protection, building of anchors, an overall awareness of what’s safe).  Trusting my partner on this climb wasn’t an issue; he’s worked as a Search and Rescue Climber in a past career.  Trust in the situation and becoming comfortable leaning back while supported by a built anchor 245’ off the ground.  Oh how small the trees looked!  Trust in the rock and in my shoes… they will stick! And if not, I am on belay and my partner will catch my fall  (yes, I did slip once, and yes, my fall was caught).

An amazing day of personal challenge, growth, and a bit of fear to keep things exciting and fun!

View from the top!
All the gear (minus people) that provided us with a safe adventure!
Oh, and on the walk off and down the dome, we may have had to cross a stream via wet, slick granite. “If you fall, sprawl!”



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